David Burke's Primehouse, Chicago, IL - 4/14/2009

Usually all my gastronomical asides revolve around a concert experience, but this one was a stand alone (and, as it turns out, sit alone) thing all to itself. I went to Chicago for about 26 hours total for a conference on coagulation disorders (ROCK!) that included the flight, the hotel and $125 to spend on "incidentals." I figured an incidentally kick ass meal wouldn't be out of the question.

I had heard of David Burke's Primehouse on its own and then saw it featured on (forgive me) Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations television show on The Travel Channel. He seemed to like it, and since I was staying at the Allerton Hotel, about 4 blocks away, I figured I'd see if I agreed.

Sitting alone at a restaurant like this seemed a bit odd to me, so I offered to the maitre' d that I could just sit at the bar. He assured me that all was well with dining solo at this joint and proceeded to lead me to a fairly inconspicuous booth.

I started with a house cocktail called a flapjack - Dewar's on the rocks, maple syrup and (essence of) bacon. There was no bacon floating around in the drink, in case you're wondering. It tasted like slightly altered Dewar's (that means good). The appetizer was an on-special soft shell crab that was magnificent. And huge ... almost main course portions. Along with all of this was a light, slightly cheesy/Asiago potted roll (which I devoured in its entirety - click the link to get some idea of what this thing looks like - awesome). Between the appetizer and the steak, I sipped a heretofore unknown-to-me beer - the Goose Island Honker's Ale. It reminded me of a lighter Old Speckled Hen - very British and bitter. Again, thumbs up.

Then it was time for the steak - a 16-ounce, 55-day-aged bone-in ribeye (medium rare, of course). The aging gave it a smokey, almost bacon-y taste that I had not experienced in a steak before. I nearly went with an old school side (like creamed spinach or hashbrowns) but couldn't turn down the truffled French fries in the end because, as I've learned in the last few years, I'm a truffle slut. This was all washed down with a fairly economical glass of a Malbec.

I was fairly full but couldn't say no to a hazelnut creme brulee topped with coffee ice cream for dessert. Fantastic, rich custard that mixed beautifully with the ice cream. I was drunk on food thereafter but oh so happy - and impressed. The Primehouse does a very nice, modernized (but not overly) take on the classic steakhouse. Probably second to the Striphouse in terms of great steaks I've had in the last couple of years.

And yes, the coagulation conference folks picked up the tab minus the alcohol.